Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, environment and history of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Sheila Collins
Sheila Collins

A passionate life coach and writer dedicated to helping others overcome obstacles and thrive in their personal and professional lives.

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